Guide to Vintage Bulova (and Generic) Watch Bands and Bracelets
Part I: 1920 - 1949
(Part II: 1950 - 1979)
I often get asked about the originality or appropriateness of a particular band or bracelet to a given watch or, similarly, for advice regarding which strap would be a "period correct" choice for a particular watch. So, I have put together this guide to help answer those questions. Whether you're trying to figure out whether the band that you have is the "correct" one or you're in search of the band that would fully restore your treasure to its former glory, this guide should provide the tools you need to make the right decision.
Understanding the correct mount for a watch is similar to identifying the correct period box--you first have to know the date of your watch, then you can use the resources here on Watchophilia to identify the accessories that would have accompanied it. If you're not sure about the date of your watch, please check out these tutorials: Identifying a Bulova and Dating a Bulova.
While the images below may not show your exact watch, they will tell you the straps and bracelets that were popular when your watch was manufactured, and which would, therefore, be a period-correct choice now. I have never accepted the idea that a watch only had one strap possibility, namely, the one shown in the vintage advertisement. I believe that advertisers--be they Bulova or a retailer--decided which strap looked best on the watch for the advertisement campaign, but that strap was likely not the only option available at the point of sale. For example, there will always be people who prefer a leather or cloth strap over a metal bracelet. Why then would any watch seller offer only one of those possibilities to everyone? My goal here is not to identify every watch and the strap that went with it, but rather to present you with options, any one of which would be appropriate based on the age of your watch.
An important point to note as you review the ads below is the progression of styles through each decade. To keep things simple, I have organized the images into sections by decade. However, in reality, band and bracelet styles did not change quite so precisely or regularly. Instead, they tended to evolve as the decade progressed, with styles earlier in the decade often being quite different from those that came later in that same decade. This is another reason why it is very important to know the date of your watch, so that you can then study the bands and bracelets that were propular in the years closely surrounding the date of your watch.
In the examples below I have not attempted to show every band or bracelet that was available every year. Rather, I captured what I believe to be at least one good example of every general type of band or bracelet shown in the available vintage Bulova advertisements for the stated decade. The year listed below the advertisement is the publication date of the advertisement and is not intended to represent the only year that the depicted band or strap was used. Similary, the watch in the ad is not intended to suggest that only that watch used that strap. In general, this article is intended to be a style guide, rather than a comprehensive catalog of every strap used by Bulova on every watch.
It should also be noted that the styles and trends described at the beginning of each decade section pertain only to Bulova watches, and, even more specifically, only to the vintage Bulova watches for which we have advertisements. Where general catalog advertisements for a decade are available I have included those following the Bulova information to provide additional information about other types and styles of bands and bracelets that were used by other watchmakers. This generic material is quite interesting in regard to when specific styles were available, even if not chosen for use by Bulova at that time.
As with all my articles, the information contained here will be regularly reviewed and updated as new information is discovered. If you don't find what you're looking for now, feel free to contact me via the contact page, post in the forums, and/or check back often to see what's new. I have intentionally not included fobs or military straps in this article. At a later date I may supplement with those or address them in separate articles.
Vintage Ads Demonstrating Period Bulova and Generic Bands and Bracelets
1920 - 1929 |
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1920s Bulova Men's Styles - "Black and White"
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Examples from Vintage Advertisements
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1919 - Leather One-Piece Strap
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1925 - Black Leather Two-Piece Strap
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1929 - Woven Mesh
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1929 - Woven Mesh with Edging
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1929 - Flexible Link
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1929 - Flexible Bar Link
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The following images are from the April 1923 Swartchild and Company Catalog (watchmaker and jeweler supplies) showing men's watch bands and bracelets available for purchase at that time |
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1920s Bulova Ladies' Styles - "Ribbons and Lace"
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Examples from Vintage Advertisements
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1921 - Link Bracelet for Pocket Watch Conversion
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1923 - Black grosgrain one-piece ribbon with two-piece decorative metal clasp
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1923 - Black grosgrain one-piece ribbon with two-piece decorative metal clasp
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1929 - Variety of styles in flexible link bracelets, sometimes embellished with real or simulated gem stones
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1928/29 - Variety of colored leathers used on sports models with regular lugs
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1929 - Leather straps for sports models with regular lugs |
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The following images are from the April 1923 Swartchild and Company Catalog (watchmaker and jeweler supplies) showing ladies' watch bands and bracelets available for purchase at that time |
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1930 - 1939 |
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1930s Bulova Men's Styles - "Bring on the Bracelets" |
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Examples from Vintage Advertisements
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1930 - Flexible link, open style
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1930 - Flexible link, closed style
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1930 - Flexible link, woven style
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1930 - Leather strap
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1930 - Flexible link strap in two-tone to match watch case
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1930 - Woven mesh
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1930 - Woven mesh with edging
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1930 - Metal link bracelet with engraving to match watch case
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1932 - Metal link bracelets with engraving to match watch case
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1932 - Link bracelet without engraving to match watch case
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1934 - Three strand leather cord strap
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1934 - Three strand metal cord strap
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1935 - Brown pigskin
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1935 - Woven leather strap
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1936 - Flexible metal link bracelets
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1936 - Flexible link bracelet
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1937 - Flexible link bracelet
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1938 - Flexible link bracelet
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1939 - Flexible link bracelet
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1939 - Brown pigskin strap
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1939 - Three strand tubular leather strap
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1939 - Woven leather cord
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The following images are from the 1931 Jason Weiler Baird North Co. Catalog (mail order jewelry and gift house) showing men's watch bands and bracelets available for purchase at that time |
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The following images are from the 1935 Swartchild and Company Catalog (watchmaker and jeweler supplies) showing men's watch bands and bracelets available for purchase at that time |
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Speidel Ferronit (stainless steel, non corrosive, non-tarnishable, non-magnetic) Folding rachet buckles, ends for 5/8" and 3/4" lugs
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Hadley gold filled bracelets
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Sturdy and Gemex (bottom one only) gold filled bracelets
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Bruner-Ritter gold plate chain bracelet - two strands curb chain Folding ractchet buckle, 5/8" and 3/4" ends
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Bruner-Ritter gold plate bracelets Folding ratchet buckle
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Hadley "Hadleyite" (stainless steel) bracelets Folding rachet buckle, ends in 5/8" or 3/4"
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Swartchild brand (undislosed manufacturer) stainless steel bracelets Folding rachet buckles, ends in 5/8" and 3/4"
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Swartchild brand (undislosed manufacturer) chromium plated bracelets Folding rachet buckle, ends in 5/8" and 3/4"
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Pontiac chromium plated bracelets, regular and engraved Folding ratchet buckles, ends in 5/8" and 3/4"
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Hadley "Norfolk" bracelet, "Azure" finish (chromium plating) Folding, sliding ratchet buckle, ends in 5/8" and 3/4"
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Sturdy "Snug-Fit" stainless steel bracelets (combination of flexible links and semi-solid curved bands) Folding ratchet buckle, 5/8" and 3/4" ends
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Sturdy "Allegheny" metal (stainless steel) bracelets Folding ratchet buckle, 5/8" and 3/4" ends
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Gemex "Titanic" (stainless steel) bracelets Small folding ratchet buckle, ends in 5/8" and 3/4"
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Pontiac Supreme 3-strand flat mesh chain with gold plated attachments Folding ratchet buckle, 5/8" and 3/4" ends
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Pontiac 3-strand leather straps with stainless steel attachments Folding ratchet buckles, 5/8" and 3/4" ends
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Pontiac Supreme 3-cord imitation leather cord bracelets with yellow gold plate attachments Folding ratchet buckle, 3/4" ends
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Bruner-Ritter 3-strand English leather cord bracelet with 1/20-12K gold filled attachments Folding ratchet buckle, 5/8" and 3/4" ends
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Assorted leather straps (see ad description above for colors, types of leather, and sizes)
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Calfskin leather straps with duo-fold and tri-fold metal buckles, available in black and tan
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 Fine genuine calfskin, available without buckles, or with solid chrome or removable pin buckles Offered in black and brown with 5/8" and 3/4" ends
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Fine English leather straps Choice of no buckles, chromium buckles, white gold content buckles Available in English calfskin, English Morocco, English two-tone, English reptile
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Fine domestic calfskin with white and yellow metal keepers, Russian finish Available in black and brown with ends in 5/8" and 3/4"
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Genuine cordovan (thinner than calfskin) leather straps in black and cherry Removable pin white metal buckles with 5/8" and 3/4" ends
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White calfskin straps for summer wear 5/8' and 3/4" ends
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Air-cooled, sweat-proof leather straps in tan, brown, and black with 5/8" and 3/4" ends
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White fabric, one-piece, buckle straps for men and women |
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The following images are from the 1939-40 Fall Winter Swartchild and Company Catalog (watchmaker and jeweler supplies) showing men's watch bands and bracelets available for purchase at that time |
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1930s Bulova Ladies' Styles - "Gender Relations" |
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Examples from Vintage Advertisements
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1930 - Black grosgrain ribbon, one piece, with metal two-piece clasp
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1930 - Variety of styles in flexible link bracelets, sometimes embellished with real or simulated gem stones
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1930 - woven mesh strap
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1930 - flexible open metal link bracelet
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1930 - Flexible closed metal link bracelet
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1930 - Silk cord
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1933 - Flexible metal open link bracelet
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1939 - Flexible metal open link bracelets |
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The following images are from the 1931 Jason Weiler Baird North Co. Catalog (mail order jewelry and gift house) showing ladies' watch bands and bracelets available for purchase at that time |
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The following images are from the 1935 Swartchild and Company Catalog (watchmaker and jeweler supplies) showing ladies' watch bands and bracelets available for purchase at that time |
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Speidel Ferronit (stainless steel, non corrosive, non-tarnishable, non-magnetic) Folding rachet buckles, ends in 7/16" and 1/2"
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Hadley gold filled bracelets
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Hadley (top bracelet) and Sturdy (all others) gold filled bracelets
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Brunermade yellow chain bracelet Folding rachet buckle, ends in 7/16" and 1/2"
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Bruner-Ritter gold plate bracelets Folding rachet bucklet Available in 7/16", 1/2", and convertible ends
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Chevron chromium plated bracelets Folding rachet buckle, ends in 7/16" and 1/2"
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Swartchild brand (undislosed manufacturer) yellow gold plate bracelets Folding rachet buckles, ends in 7/16" and 1/2"
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Swartchild brand (undislosed manufacturer) yellow "Acid-Proof Quality" (specially treated) Some styles also available in white rhodium Folding rachet buckles, ends in 7/16" and 1/2" and convertible
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Swartchild brand (undislosed manufacturer) chromium plated bracelets Engraved and unengraved styles Folding rachet buckles, ends in 7/16" and 1/2"
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Hadleyite (stainless steel) bracelets Folding rachet buckle, ends in 7/16" and 1/2"
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Hadley "Sharon" bracelet (Hadley "Azure" chrome finish) Folding rachet buckle, ends in 7/16", 1/2", and 3/8"
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Bruner-Ritter braided leather cord bracelets Pigskin in black and two-tone (tan/light brown) Gold plated (white or yellow) folding rachet buckle and ends (7/16")
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Hadley silk ribbon bracelet with yellow Duchess Quality convertible ends
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Dainty silk ribbon bracelet with Hadley gold plated convertible ends
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Hadley silk ribbon bracelet with white Duchess Quality 7/6" ends
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Black silk cord bracelets
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Sturdy "Snug-Fit" stainless steel bracelets (combination of flexible links and semi-solid curved bands) Folding ratchet buckle, 7/16" and 1/2" ends
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Sturdy "Allegheny" metal (stainless steel) bracelets Small folding ratchet buckle, baguette ends pieces in 7/16", 1/2", 1/8"
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Gemex "Titanic" (stainless steel) bracelets Small folding ratchet buckle, ends in 7/16", 1/2", 3/8"
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Sturdy 2-strand leather bracelet Brown leather with Sturdy gold quality yellow folding ratchet buckle, ends in 7/16"
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Bruner-Ritter gold plated bracelet Available in yellow, white, and green gold with assorted end sizes and styles |
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Swartchild brand (undislosed manufacturer) stainless steel bracelets Folding rachet buckles, ends in 7/16" and 1/2" and baguette
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Leather straps with convertible ends
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White fabric,one-piece, buckle straps for men and women
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The following images are from the 1939-40 Fall/Winter Swartchild and Company Catalog (watchmaker and jeweler supplies) showing ladies' watch bands and bracelets available for purchase at that time |
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1940 - 1949 |
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1940s Bulova Men's Styles - "Expanding the Future"
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Examples from Vintage Advertisements
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1940 - Introduction of metal expansion band; early models had leather ends
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1940 - Assortment of styles, including top-stitched, light colored leather; metal expansion bands in variety of gold colors; and continuation of flexible metal open link bracelets from prior decade in a variety of colors, including red/rose/pink gold
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1940 - Assortment of styles, including flexible open link bracelets, expansion bands, and leather straps
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1941 - Leather is a popular choice, equal to metal; offered in a variety of colors with ligher colors preferred over dark
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1941 - Variety of styles and colors in metal link bracelets
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1942 - Variety of styles with leather quite popular; note the leather ends on the expansion bracelet; metal link bracelets still seen but in the minority
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1942 - Red/rose/pink gold fashionable, including matching expansion bands
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1944 - Variety of styles in expansion bands, including this new bow tie model
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1945 - Brown leather is a popular choice for mens' and ladies military themed models surrounding WWII
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1946 - Padded leather is seen more, along with metal mesh bracelets in a variety of styles and colors, such as basketweave in pink, white, and yellow gold
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1947 - Some metal mesh bracelets offered in solid gold to match solid gold cases
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1947 - Padded and unpadded, top-stitched leather are popular choices, as shown together in this ad
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1947 - Reptile leathers were also used
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1948 - Metal mesh bracelets offered in a variety of styles and colors
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1949 - Metal mesh bracelets offered in a variety of styles and colors
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1949 - Expansion bracelets offered in a variety of styles and colors |
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1940s Bulova Ladies' Styles - "Expanding the Future Too"
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Examples from Vintage Advertisements
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1940 - Mesh chain bracelet
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1940 - Continued use of black silk cord bracelet and flexible metal link bracelets in a variety of styles and colors
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1941 - Rose/red/pink gold a popular choice with matching metal bracelets in a variety of styles
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1945 - Brown leather is a popular choice for mens' and ladies military themed models surrounding WWII
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1947 - Variety of styles, including black silk cord, metal chain mesh, and metal link
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1947 - Larger, more casual watches paired with metal mesh bracelets in a variety of styles, such as basketweave, offered in a variety of colors
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1947 - Leather offered as an option for larger ladies styles
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1948 - Black silk cord and metal mesh in basketweave pattern--style of bracelet matches size of case/lugs
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1948 - Variety of styles, including an expansion bracelet with the appearance of bar links
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1949 - Full expansion bracelets in a variety of styles and colors |
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